2008.09 Poland - Ukraine - Poland - Lithuania

2008.09 Tallinn (EST) - Bialystok (PL) - Lublin - Lviv (UA) - Kyiv - Odesa - Zaporizhya - Simferopol - Alushta - Yalta - Simferopol - Lviv - Przemyśl (PL) - Gdańsk - Gdynia - Sopot - Suwalki - Rozalimas (LT) - Rakvere (EST)

30.08.2008 The long waited vacation has finally arrived. All together 23 days, as I hadn't been working whole year yet. Already from January planned. Even though it seemed kind of funny to plan that long before... it was smart thing to do, because all summer was fast - work, building bathroom at mother's place, HCS Camps, meetings, etc. And right before trip I had absolutely no time. But I had good HCS guests and the last one I had to leave in Tallinn even if I had to go on trip myself.
Last evening after work moving my stuff away from students dormitory and party with my brother, his girlfriend and Gwen from Antwerp / Turku in Karja Kelder and Beer House in Tallinn.


Next morning, after not too much sleep, at 6:30 left my bus from Tallinn. The bus driver was Polish and only a couple of quiet Estonians on board, so I can say I didn't hear Estonian language on my trip, starting from Tallinn, before my way back when in Lithuania I got picked up by Estonian driver. Except buying pies in Pärnu on my departure.
Nothing spectacular happened on the bus trip to Bialystok. The trip ended about 19:50. Quick calculation says 13 hours and 20 minutes sitting, sleeping and music, but as the time in Poland is -1 hour compared to the Baltics and Ukraine... it was 14 hours and 20 minutes.
I must make a remark that in that Ecolines bus information was given to passengers in Lithuanian. And in Russian and German with strong Lithuanian accent. For me it was nearly impossible to hear anything because behind me were sitting three men, probably Russian, in addition other bullshit talk they were talking... I think they were learning to read because all kinds of signs and shop names they read loudly and laughed about them.
So all the information about changing bus in Riga, toilets, length of staying in stops I just had to guess. Even though my Russian is not very good. Even not good, I think.
But I managed to get to Bialystok.
It was dark outside, but the weather was dry. I looked around in Bialystok, had an hamburger and saw no map of the city. But there was a girl with her mother sitting and waiting for bus. So I asked them, where's the Old Town, center, interesting things to see. They didn't speak English or Russian very much, but the girl told me it's a small town and not that interesting. I told I'm no going to believe that and asked just the way to the center.
Not very far I saw nice church in lights on the hill...


...and walked further. There was a concert going on and for free. It
was really good band, named WayNoWay [www.waynoway.pl].


I listened to the end and walked further. There was a nice church with Jan Pawel (the Pope) figure. Next to this church one man walked to me and offered accomodation. I need to trust a person before I accept this kind of offer so I thanked for worrying, said everything is fine and walked away.



And in this "small and not that interesting town" there was a beautiful palace in lights.


Many just married couples were taking pictures there. One couple was funny. They rented Hummer for wedding car and it seemed that they rather photographed the car. Lifting the bride up on car and holding here there in very uncomfortable position.


Then I thought of having a beer, as I was quite tired from bus ride and too early for sleeping. I walked into a bar, which was full of cigarette smoke. I didn't feel like having a beer there and walked towards the door. One man accosted me. Asked me something and when I answered it's too smoky place (these moments I'm really happy that it's not allowed to smoke inside pubs in Tallinn any more), he put his cigarette away and I agreed having a beer. He offered to show me where is cheap hostel nearby, but I refused the offer. One thing was that I didn't feel like going
anywhere with him and it was warm outside so I had no wish to pay for hostel for a few hours of staying.
We had beer and chatted, his friend came. Friend asked (not very calmly, I'd say) if I was really, Estonian, not RUSSIAN. Then he told that he had heard we have 50% of Russians. I told that's rather 25-30% but he seemed to know better so I left the subject.
Then two more guys walked in and to our table. The guy talked to me in the beginning whispered "you better sit a couple of tables away - this is Polish Mafia". I didn't care, but sat a couple of tables away. They did act kind of weird... three men going together to a dark corner, chatting there and coming back. Then going out together and coming back. Polish mafia : )
Anyway I finished my beer and started thinking about the place to sleep. I spent short time in railway station and security guys asked me to leave. I walked a little around and found a quiet place.
As it was in the middle of town and I didn't want any attention, I didn't use my tent and in the beginning it was chilly. But when I laid my shemagh scarf over the head, it was warm to the morning.


In the morning I wanted just leave for Lublin. I thought about hitch-hiking but as I didn't know where and how far is the place for hitch-hiking and as I was already in the bus station I saw in 30 minutes there will be bus to Lublin. I decided to take it. And I managed to buy the tickets in mixed language, as the woman spoke only
Polish.


In Lublin I had CouchSurfing friend there - Michal. I sent him SMS and he promised to come soon. As I had time, I went eating to a bar, which looked nice. And one of the most interesting lotteries when traveling - ordering food in place where no English or Russian is spoken. And I was lucky. Food was OK. And there was power contact in the wall so I could recharge phone batteries. Finding a place for that is quite challenging sometimes. Then public toilets and shaving places in trains are great.
With my host and his girl friend we walked in botanics garden, Old Town, ate special pan cakes. Lublin in very nice peaceful city. A little more rushing in these days because of beginning of school.
Next morning Michal showed me good spot for hitch-hiking. In all ways Michal was excellent host.
I was waiting at the hitch-hiking spot by the road and decided to visit the open air
market. And bought some fruits and water. Which was smart move.
Getting a ride wasn't very fast but finally one Polack with a small truck picked me up. It's just amazing how nice hills and fields and villages down in the valley you can see in Poland. We went to the border of Hrebenne and he said he has to wait for 5 hours. I had dinner and tried to cross the border but it was for cars only. So I
started walking back on the main road on the wrong side because on the other side trucks were waiting. I talked to a couple of them but they told "5 hours". I didn't understand, what's the case and kept on walking and waving to small cars. Quite soon one Žiguli in bad condition picked me up and took me over the border. Border was quite quick. They gave us scraps of paper to fill. I got "immigration card".
Gaps were for name, passport number, registration number of the car, place to stay in Ukraine. The car was only for a couple of kilometers and I think I never even saw hotel Lviv that I was told to write on the paper. Half of it I had to keep until leaving the country.
They left me in the town near the border called Rava-Ruska.


I didn't wait for long there and a guy in old Volga, in very bad condition stopped. The driver asked in what will I pay. I told I have no money but anyway he picked me up. We had nice talk and he revealed his secret - he was contrabandist. He explained - he get sausages over border and he took out 6 big sausages out. In one junction he stopped and we waited. Pretty soon a 15 years old in very good condition Mercedes-Benz stopped next to us and fat man in nice clothes and a woman came out. They got the sausages and talked to the "contrabandist" and left. We continued our trip towards Lviv.
Even though he got no money from me, he took me to train station and was very nice person anyway.
Later I found out that the train stations are best places in Ukraine to start exploring the city from. They are close to city center, there is Internet, food, beer and even possible to sleep, meet talkative foreigners and party.
One guy in CS had told me he can show me around, I sent him SMS. He answered that he's sorry and having a party with his friends and we can meet next day.


I went to the train station, spent half an hour in internet looking for messages and map of Lviv without understanding even where train station is... and decided to have a walk in Lviv without guide. It was pretty dark and somehow I managed to get to the Old Town. I walked around and it was beautiful, of course.
The weather was nice but I had scarf around the neck that had colors of Estonian flag - blue, black white.


As the weather was nice, lots of young people were sitting in public places, having fun and drinking beer. Unexpectedly one guy accosted me, cheering "Dynamo Kyiv". As in Tallinn I generally avoid "gangs" I explained that's Estonian flag and thought of keeping going, but the guys got excited and offered me beer.
The people seemed OK but still I was rather cautious. But the more I talked to them the more I liked these guys.


We had beer together and they asked where will I spend the night. I tried to not-answer, but I couldn't. Train station was my plan because there was everything I needed. But I was asked to be Dima's guest. I agreed. The place was in Old Town. A very interesting old house. And beautiful inside.
I was amazed that such young (actually at my age, but still...) guy as Dima knows so much about Estonia... and has contacts here and when mentioning the land he used "Eesti" instead of "Estonia"... But the more time I spend with him I understood that this guy is extremely smart and with very wide field of view.
Next day we spent almost all day together. He was showing me the most important places in Lviv and we were talking for hours. Meeting him was one of the most (maybe even THE most) important things I did in Ukraine. And of course his all family was nice and kind. Making us local food... that's actually important to say - you can't get national food in national food restaurant but in ordinary home.
He made many times funny mistake... when talking about his mother, girlfriend etc. he used "he" instead of "she". Maybe in subconscious he felt Estonian... because in Estonian language is "ta" ("tema") which is common for male and female.
Before describing of other places in Ukraine I can say I loved the feeling of Lviv. In this city I could relax and enjoy just "wasting" time. The feeling there is calm - young boys and girls sitting on park benches, holding each other, others chatting and drinking beer, mostly old men playing chess, checkers, domino etc. in the parks...
One evening I was sitting in Old Town and drinking beer and one above-middle-age man came to us, pretty drunk. Probably crazy also, because no matter how drunk am I, I'm not telling stuff like he did. I really can't remember all his talk but after few seconds he changed his story. He said he was Armenian... somebody... then he was Soviet army general (if I'm not mistaken). Then Ukrainian freedom fighter. And when someone told that I am an Estonian, he lifted his hand quickly and said "heil, Hitler!" :) Soviet army general's greeting?
There is writing on the facade of National University of Ivan Franko: "Patriae deсori civibus educandis" (Educated people are decorating the fatherland).
And I loved the "love for your own country and people" feeling. I think I can say, Lviv is nationalist (not like that crazy asshole who tried to kill all other nations, but "love-your-nation-nationalist), but who else should you support if not your own family, friends and nation (too often it feels that politicians are working
for some other nation and getting paid for it. The only question is why are we paying them?)?
A thing that looked kind of odd... friends were talking to each other in Russian. Even though everybody knew Ukrainian also.
The only thing that was crazy in Lviv was the traffic. After leaving Lviv I was glad still having my toes attached to me feet.
Then I was really happy I was accustomed being careful and trained by crazy traffic in Tallinn.
Dima was great help to the end - we bought train tickets together and he sent me to the station afterwards. And gave me contacts of somebody in Kyiv. Hopefully I can be useful for him just as he made my stay in Lviv perfect!


"плацкарта"-car of the train was new experience for me. And they served very good tea there. Toilet was not very much according to EURO-directions... "water" on the floor etc. But I survivved - seen worse.
Arriving to train station of Kyiv was nice. There are amazing train stations in Ukraine. As I had one HCS contact from Kyiv, I sent an SMS there but got no answer. So I walked to the center square which is, of course beautiful.


From there I walked up to a hill for nicer view and reached house of
Ukrainian Parliament. Wandered about and saw Ukrainian restaurant.
That wasn't very expensive and then I finished I was full.


Then more walking. And I found a wall on one hill where is poster
about old fortresses. And a fortress next to it. As I saw people up on
the edge, I assumed it's a museum or something. I went in, onto the
edge and saw nice view. I thought these platforms are more and walked
further along the wall. When I noticed it won't get more interesting,
I decided to leave and walked more center of the castle.
Then I saw lots of guys in military uniforms, doctors' costumes and
patient' clothes. Later I found out that was military hospital.
What I liked very much in Kyiv were block houses. Not like in Tallinn cheap (appearance) and unsuitable glass houses but they build beautiful even these days.


I walked more and saw many churches with golden towers and not far from it nice panorama view over the river. And somehow I managed to reach very big square where was playing Soviet military music. There were lots of vessels of war, statues of "Heroic Soviet Cities" (I was not disappointed Tallinn wasn't one of them), many-many monuments of attacking Soviet soldiers and one awfully ugly and big monument.


This all made a composition which was quite disgusting. If this place is for tourists, then they will definitely get wrong impression of Ukraine. And I didn't see any signs telling these guys are NOT the Liberators. And I was very glad that I've been in Lviv before. And the people I talked to afterwards gave me back the feeling that most of the people are not brainwashed by Soviet propaganda and they know the history.
From this point I decided to walk back to the city center. I had to ask people a few times because I was pretty lost and tired carrying this big rucksack over the hills all day. I managed to get to the main square again. There I met the Dima's friend Lena who showed me around a little and we bought train tickets for Odesa, because I felt not much interesting I could see in Kyiv next day going around on my own.
And to get to the ticket sales office we took a cab. Not the regular one but just a car that stopped because Lena was waving her hand by the street. Driver tried to argue about the price Lena offered, but Lena was tough. That was funny. Actually Lena was right, because the office was very close.
Lena was in a hurry so she left, but I had few hours to the train so I decided to wait in the park quite near. And this was the only "not nice" place in Kyiv I saw. Pretty dirty park.
In Ukraine I saw posters on the street "bring back the children to home country" and this was like in Estonia... Politicians are talking about it, "worrying", raising the age of retiring... but actually doing nothing to make people feel good in their country... cost of apartment - a person can't pay 100 years to bank for one apartment... or rent 5 times average salary. If it's hard to rest and travel in European Union... hard to make your own business... why to come back?
But there are people who still live there and respect...
The train ride was nice and I think it was this time, when an old man started talking that he had been in Estonia in Soviet times in big town next to the sea and in name of the town has 4 letters. I tried to remember, but I knew only Võsu. He asked "do you know Estonia?" I answered "yes" and he said "the F* you know". He was drunk. Finally he remembered... "Pärnu". But in Russian way written it has 6 letters. And in Estonian... five letters.
And he had one more not surprising question: "why didn't you want to be in the (Soviet) Union with us any more? You were doing well - you had sour cream and meat etc. then". I told that I can't speak Russian that well to discuss politics, but I told that we are doing well right now also. Not mentioning the problems we have... because anyway these are not that big problems compared to what we used to have.
To Odesa I got 9 o'clock in the morning. And the temperature was about 30 degrees Celsius.


I asked a few people, where is the Old Town, they didn't know. So I just walked to the beach. Funny thing - when I wanted to buy пломбир-ice cream [plombir] (dictionary says: rich creamy ice cream) the salesperson warned me - that's a пломбир! :)


The water temperature of the Black Sea felt chilly, but it didn't feel chilly when I was swimming. In Odesa I had the best kvass on my trip. I got nostalgic because pretty soon after Soviet time they stopped selling that drink in Estonia and that's a pity. I drunk quite a lot of it.


It wasn't that easy to find a place to eat. I tried to avoid the fast food old ladies were selling on the streets. But I found restaurant "компот". Interior was nice and cup of tea was big (normal for me) but quite expensive. The cup of tea cost 12 hrivna. Which is about 1,73 EUR. But I had a dinner there and the price was a little lower than in Tallinn Old Town. Portions were too small in all places.
Next to this restaurant an old man came to talk to me and in very unclear Russian language he tried to tell me about sightseeing places in Odesa, as he had been living there all his life.
I was walking to the beach and along the beach and found the sea port "official gate to Odesa". And that was the place where Old Town was.


And there was Potemkin' stairs. 192 steps. Quite famous piece of engineering and pieces of the stairs were transported to the place on many ships. And one interesting thing - a little further than the edge of the stairs you can't see the stairs from the top.
The Old Town was beautiful, of course and I walked through it back to the beach. In one bar was some kind of open air party and I sat outside listening to nice Ukrainian music.
After it ended I walked further to find a place to sleep. As it was dry and warm I wasn't thinking of renting a flat even though in the train station there were lots of women offering apartments.
But I had all the camping equipment so it was OK. Not very encouraging were the dogs running around and barking. But those weren't dangerous.
I was already near the woods where I thought private place for sleeping was and I saw forest fire.


And a couple of kids (about 16 years old?) sitting on the bench not far from it. I asked (in awfully bad Russian language at the moment) can't they see it? Did they call the fire brigade? But no answer and they walked away. I went quickly to the bar not far and told the barman. He came and had a look. And called the fire brigade.
But I didn't feel like sitting and waiting until the trees catch fire. I put on my boots on and started to kill the fire. I managed to end it, went to the bar and told it's OK now and after some time fire brigade came. They saw it's OK, asked me did I start it. I said no, but there was a couple sitting here and they left.
That showed me despite of numerous monuments for heroes of Odesa... no one came to help me with that fire... so the heroes became extinct.
In the morning I decided I will spend this day on the beach and just relax. So I bought a bottle of sparkling wine Odesa and water melon and had sun bath and some swimming.
There I fed the birds my wiener pies I had bought for train trip and they weren't tasty at all. I was making pieces and I saw that the wiener had given color to white bread around it and it was slimy. Not the most natural meat.
When walking around in Odesa, I noticed one boy walking with a girl having shirt on with writings "Eesti 90" for 90th anniversary of Estonian Republic. I started quickly talking to them, saying "Eesti" and something more, but the boy said his girlfriend had been in Estonia last summer and they walked away.


That day I bought train tickets and next day after mid day left my train to Zaporizhya.
Before my train left I was sitting outside near book and coins sellers and one drunk man came showing his Soviet coin. I ruined his happiness a little and told I got many at home. The he, of course, asked me where I'm from. I told him and he called his wife... also drunk-looking. She wasn't very impressed and left. Then a younger guy appeared. Also drunk-looking and without front teeth. The man who arrived first started looking for his car keys and offered the younger guy to take his car and show me neighborhood. I quickly refused this kind offer... it really wasn't a good plan. I stood up and said I'm getting on the train. Younger guy told that they're going to drink for my happy train ride. I said that's OK, very nice of them and the answer was "but we don't have any money". "Too bad" was my last sentence to them :)
On the train to Zaporizhya I opened red sparkling wine I had found from the beach (it wasn't expired) and then I had my only contact with Ukrainian police and that was the only time I saw them on train. Elsewhere I saw them a lot. They just asked for my passport (even though it's allowed to drink anything anywhere) and left.
In Zaporizhya the weather was nice and I decided to have a walk, as my Hospitality Club friend Dima was working and I had time.
I saw a wide but boring street and car factory buildings and street-cleaning workers doing their job very carefully. Then a very big market. And a park. The park looked nice outside so I walked in and sat down. My first bad impression. Garbage everywhere and big nice house built for children. But when I looked inside, it was like public toilet without "output". And some teenagers went in to "hang around".
There was garbage everywhere but the trash cans were full... so it wasn't the problem only because people were messy... Then I saw only Soviet blocks of flats and another park, full of garbage. In the park was a pond with a sign "No swimming, danger to life".


And I saw a guy with old Soviet car, made in Zaporizhya, selling fuel by the big road. It was very hot outside and smell of gas... I walked by quicker than usual.


I reached the train station and felt very tired of the Soviet houses and trash so if I didn't have Dima there, I would have left on next train. But I had a few hours until Dima came and I was sitting on the platform and I saw how women who are selling pies (in every big and little train stop) are storing their "hot pies". In big plastic bag were packed every pie in a separate plastic bag and storing them under the sun (they really love plastic bags there). So... not very fresh stuff. And I did resist buying them almost to the end. On my last train ride I saw one woman selling them without plastic bag, nice and dry (not slimy like the others) and these were good.


Dima arrived and that was incredible. We went to his place, had delicious supper, tea, cold beer, shower, watching pictures from his travels and my pictures from the camera... talking about politics and again... Ukraine has the same problems than we have. And the people that are capable to think... who have been learning history and have wide field of view... they just can't support unfriendly neighboring country in his actions in the past and present.
When drinking beer, Dima was master of toasts. I could only agree and drink : )
In all places I saw Stella Artois pubs and finally find out that Stella Artois and Tuborg are brewed in Ukraine for local market.
Plan for next day was great for me. Despite of having busy times at work he took a couple of hours from working time to show me around. We went on the island on Khortytsia in the morning. This is the most important historical place in Zaporizhya. It's not only very nice island on river Dnepr but also base of Zaporizhyan Kozaks and there is museum and Kozak fortress.


Then we went together along the street of Lenin (statue of Lenin is the highest of Ukraine in Zaporizhya). Were at some monuments, fountains and Dima left for work.


Without my big backpack I was very mobile. So I walked around the town, saw many monuments, fountains and walked two times over hydroelectric power plant bridge. The bridge was old and swaying heavily as the cars were passing.


In one restaurant I saw one the drinks card they are offering Estonian liquor "Vana Tallinn". And funny thing - pretty young girls at the restaurant were calling male waiter there "молодой человек" [young person].
In the evening I sat on the train for Simferopol. The only special thing - I wanted to be in coupe this time. And I didn't like it as much as "плацкарта"-car. Less space and it's more interesting when people are passing by. But this was just a room for four.
Fortunately there was one young family. The man was sleeping already after half a liter of vodka, kid was sleeping and woman sitting on the bed wearing underwear only.
This was a country girl very interested about me : ) asked to sit by her (which I did) and asking some stuff and to asked show something interesting from Estonia. I showed her pictures from my camera. If there was a female on the picture (even if several pictures with the same female on it), she asked "your girl?".
And finally... someone who was talking Ukrainian to me. Pretty hard to understand, but still nice.
She had been studying German in school. When she asked what was interesting in Zaporizhya, I answered: "Lenin". As a joke that she understood. And she told me about Lenin dying in syphilis etc. which was never mentioned at school. Funny girl.
In the morning I woke up in Simferopol.


Dima and his wife Olga had given me very nice presents - souvenir plate Zaporizhya, map of Crimea (with smaller maps of town centers) and book "The Guidebook All About Ukraine" with dedication "As a mark of friendship between Ukraine and Estonia we are giving this book as memoir. Happy adventures and interesting trips! Regards, Dmitri and Olga",
As I had maps and compass I decided to walk to the airport to find out about planes between Simferopol and Tallinn and when walking... see how's life in Simferopol. I had seen before that cheapest price for the flight was about 70 EUR.
I reached to the border of town and saw that on the signs were showing to towns totally other direction than on my map. I understood that I misread my compass. Thought that red was South but it was North.
So I took minibus back to the center. As I didn't feel tired I decided to walk to the "right" direction.
When I reached to the place walking, no signs about airport. One man told me that quite near is abandoned Soviet military airport. Good thing to put on the map... So I took minibus to the center again.
I saw on the map that there is one more airport but as I thought I've seen enough that quite poor Simferopol, I just went to Internet Cafe and checked the prices in Internet.
Without booking long time before the price was about 190 EUR. I had reached Crimea a lot faster than planned and I had only a few more places to visit, I decided not to use planes and as train connections are great I will go back through Poland. Couldn't choose train Kyiv - Vilnius, because there is Belarus between and they want visa.
But I wanted to continue my trip to the Black Sea. I didn't want to start from Yalta, so I chose Alushta. To start from the mountains and end in Sevastopol. And then think what next.
I walked around near train station and there were cab drivers walking around and catching people. One stopped me and second one was quickly present. They offered for 30 USD to take me to Alushta and then 25 USD. I said I need to think and walked away. Then I saw trolley bus with sign "Alushta". Ticket was 0,73 EUR and for rucksack 0,15 EUR. It was long (128km) uncomfortable trip, backback on my lap and trolley full of people, but I survived.


As I had the map I saw most important places for tourists, walked on "non-touristic" streets, went by the sea, visited terrarium of snakes, birds and reptiles. And the aquarium on fish from the Black and Sea of Azov, fresh-water fish, the biggest fresh water fish and the fish from Red Sea and Indian ocean.
The woman who was working there was a little worried I was in there so few time. But I saw it all.
The time was about 6 P.M. and no more trolleys for Yalta. It was nice view in Alushta but I didn't feel like hanging around there more. So I decided to have a little walk outside the town towards Yalta.


I walked for a couple of hours higher and higher and suddenly it was dark outside. I decided to have a sleep. Even though the time wasn't late.
I put up my tent not very far but higher from the road. Weather was windy and the noises disturbed a little, but I had nice long sleep.
In the morning I walked few more kilometers to next trolley stop and took a trolley to Yalta. Not far from the sea near monument for Lenin I was looking at my map and thinking how will I make my tour an old man sat next to me and started to talk...
He asked if I was from the Baltics and of course I said "yes". He asked why we have so bad attitude to Russians. I wasn't surprised but acted like I didn't quite understand and he explained... he had heard that we are not speaking in Russian with our Russians. I said that we are speaking in Russian. He continued: "yes, right here you are speaking in Russian to me, but there not in shops. Nowhere". I told that is not true. That is a lot easier to find a job if you know Russian and that's the truth. And he shouldn't listen what are they lying on television but just come and look for himself.
It would have been too much asking him that why should we speak foreign language in our country? It's nice thing to do - being able to speak a foreign language. Or if I didn't want to speak Russian... what would be the reason talking to him in Russian? Being afraid of old man? No :)
Or why didn't he speak Turkish to me there? Or even Ukrainian?
But I didn't ask him that. He couldn't say anything about that after I said "just come and look like I'm doing here and find out how things really are".
So he changed the subject and asked: "You're from Estonia, right? You are telling that you are civilized nation but being violent with statues. This is history and let it be". His verbiage was a lot less friendly.
The question I was kind of prepared. It would have been too difficult to explain "their" [Soviet, not Ukrainian] heroes and "our" heroes} so I chose to explain it that dead people should rest in cemetery and not in the middle of town and people celebrating on it. I explained we had normal Russians feeling OK with removal but those who got paid for it, organized the rumble...
I stood up while explaining this. He got confused and just said (even less friendly than before): "walk walk".
And I did walk. He got nothing interesting to offer me. I walked as my map said - churches, monuments... and over a long time I saw again one nice statue - of Lesja Ukrainka and another - Lady with a dog.
I finished with monuments of half a city and took a break for fast food and a guy came talking to me. This one looked more intelligent.
The reason he came to talk - he said he had written a book about sightseeing in Crimea and he would be good guide even for the places tourists normally wouldn't go. I told him I'm fine and purpose of my trip isn't that much churches and sightseeing than talks with the ordinary people. He looked around and said it's not that easy with it these days. Which was funny, because he was the "ordinary man". In the good meaning. Not politician and not my guide at the moment.
We didn't talk very much, but we had similar points of view about different questions (the usual questions what somebody from Ukraine would talk to Estonian guy). He told that his grandmother was from Mari nation.
When he left, I felt like making tour in second half of the town and leaving for Sevastopol.


The second part included "the beach" which was disappointing. A couple of square meters of rubble and full of people. Only good thing I found the place for donuts made by old receipt. I bought many.
As the beach wasn't interesting, I decided to walk up on the hill where my map showed cemetery. This was nice green place and grave stones showed names of doctors, writers, engineers etc. "murdered by the fascists". I really have to re-read history lessons. I couldn't recall which fascists were in Crimea?! Only the Soviets did these actions in Estonia...


And again... I felt that's enough of being of Yalta. I went to the station to find a transport for Sevastopol but there wasn't any. I chose to go by minibus to Simferopol and from there take a trolley to Sevastopol. I managed to get to Simferopol and the weather turned chilly and windy. Just like weather forecast had told few days ago.
So I decided not to get wet, cold and sick... better to start going back as I had decided before I'll go through Poland.
I bought train tickets to Lviv and there was a couple of hours waiting. Which went quite quickly - I visited market to buy snacks for long (26 hours) train trip and wine from Ukraine. On another market I bought honey with nuts for my sister's kid
(it wasn't easy to find "something special" to buy from Ukraine).
On the market I asked how much is the honey and the woman said "60". I said "I'll take it" and the woman said "50". Nice business :)
Then I had (very very small) salad in cafe. There one man was asking about my backpack and telling about his. Just nice little conversation.
And on the train platform there were many sports teams singing their songs and I think even anthem of Ukraine. One drunk beggar was dancing for them.


I got to Lviv quite late in the evening and I sent Dima an SMS but no answer (he was out of town). I walked to the place I wrote him I will be and there was no one. So I walked back to the train station. Thought that I'll spend a couple of hours in Internet and start hitch-hiking in the morning or take Ecolines bus to Tallinn but there was sitting a group of young people.


One on them called me and asked me to sit down. They were two different groups of travelers. Three of them were on the same train with me. But I didn't meet them there. We had wine and grapes together, talking. They asked what's my destination and I answered "back home, to Tallinn". One guy said that they are going to Gdańsk, Poland. I looked at the map and as it was in North-Poland I asked if I can join them in the morning. It was OK. Then some cops interrupted our party. And we moved to another hall. And some continued sleeping on the floor. After some time I heard loud talk in the hall next to us and saw one cop yelling on another and they went quickly through our hall and after some time the one who was yelled at before came back and shouted at us to not to block the way or something and left...
In the morning we went on a bus that took us to the border. This border was also for pedestrians.
There wasn't any order in the checkpoint - half of the people waiting outside and half inside (I was glad it was good weather) and the people tried to force their way to the officers. Suddenly one officer came out, having a sleepy face, yelling at the people (probably about stopping that pushing) and smiled and went back inside.
On the side of Poland the officers were cool - asking about my destination, were interested about marks in my passport and talking to me in English...
One woman was checking the cargo. Asking me if I had any cigarettes or alcohol. I told I have a bottle of wine and a couple of small bottles of liquor. She asked to show... I started opening by bag from the top but I had too many things on so I decided to open from the bottom... I managed to show only bottom of the box where I had the liquor and she let me pass.
Then we took a bus to Przemyśl. Somehow we managed to lose a couple from us. Others left on a train as they didn't go to Gdańsk and told me the others will also be in this train station. So I waited.


Finally they came and decided to have some sleep at the train station but I wanted to look around in the city. I went on the market. On the gate one guy greeted me nicely: "Wódka? Papierosy?"
In the train station was public toilet. In the "price list" were 7-8 items. "Cabin - 1,5 zloty, washing hands 0,5 zloty, etc." This was the most expensive toilet I've seen and not the nicest. Later I went back to the toilet to take a picture of that price list and the lady started running at me, yelling. Lucky me that the "ticket office" was pretty far from the entrance :)
Then I walked through Old Town up to the hill, highest point of the town and nice view opened from there.


Later we took the train through Warszawa to Gdańsk. I liked the ticket system very much - after buying ticket you have 2 days to use the ticket. So if you miss the train, you won't lose money. Any in Warszawa we sat on another train and showed the same ticket. I have to say that understanding public transport in cities abroad (and even in my home land) if the hardest thing - you never know will you get the ticket on the vehicle - from the driver or is there ticket sales person or from kiosk (maybe you need to mark the ticket - inside or outside or do you have to pay extra when buying from the driver. Will you get the ticket or not. Or you just don't get the ticket but you should... ;)
We got to Gdańsk early in the morning.
After proper sleep me and my host Szymon went for sightseeing trip on Gdansk. He told me a lot about history and we visited beautiful Old Town, port area and churches.


National food restaurant was great and we had beers with friends of Szymon at a bar. This was nice evening.
Next day Szymon gave me perfect instructions where to go in neighboring town - Gdynia - next day. There is very nice beach and promenade, quite dark and high forest next to the beach. Museum ships and a "doughnut" place. These are not ordinary but definitely worth trying. Very sweet things.
One weird thing I saw was military shop. And from big display window were guns on sight like dresses at women shop.
I also saw a bunch of Russian kids in Gdynia. Probably school study trip. And I was wondering what would the teacher tell there... in quite patriotic district of Poland...
Then I went back to Szymon's place and we had Polish national soup - flaki.
For the evening in our plans was a jazz concert. Szymon's girlfriend and a couple of other artists were singing and we were tasting some Polish drinks - Żubrówka, Goldwasser and Krupnik. The concert took place in the city between Gdańsk and Gdynia - Sopot. The city was kept in very good order. Late in the evening I even saw men cleaning posts at the electric train stops.


Next morning early was my bus from Gdansk to Suwalki. To Suwalki I got three o'clock by Polish time. I had sent e couple of text messages to people from Kaunas, but no answer. I walked to the border of town and started hitch-hiking. Although many cars with Estonian numbers were passing and I had sign "Tallinn"... it took a lot of time to get a ride. I thought I'll go to Kaunas and wait for the Ecolines bus in the morning.
The driver was Lithuanian and told me he's going to Panevežys area. And I thought that's even better - to wait in the bus station or train station. We had an interesting conversation and it was dark and the temperature outside was 4 degrees.
When we were near Panevežys the guy - Saulius - asked me to be his guest. He said there might be crooks around train station and that he could take me to the road between Riga and Panevežys next morning. I thought a little and agreed.
His wife had made delicious food and they offered home made booze. Vodka with plums. This was the best strong alcoholic drink I had tasted.
I showed some pictures from my camera and we had conversation with his wife Laima. Saulius went to take his brother to hospital because he'd been drinking... but the doctor was drunk also...
Next morning Saulius fried me eggs for breakfast and took be by the road, as promised.
It didn't take very much time to get a ride by Estonian man. He turned away right after roundabout in Riga and I didn't feel like hitch-hiking in South East Estonia. So I came off. Familiar place, I had been hitch-hiking there in the summer so I decided to walk a little. But it took much time. Then I started hitch-hiking again and another Estonian picked me up. He went to Tallinn, but as I wanted to visit my mother this weekend, I decided to get off in Pärnu.
From Pärnu to Rakvere (180km). 1st ride ~12km (Sindi), 2nd - 13km (Selja), 3rd - 4km, 4th - 3km, 5th - 23km (Vändra), 6th - 45km (Paide), 7th - 85km (Rakvere).
The man that gave me first ride told that he had been in Ukraine lately. Because of work. Wanted to visit Tchernobyl district but gave up the idea because he had dosimeter and that showed too much. He told about Ukrainian border guards wanted some bribe... but when he showed his ID (he was also working on that border as border guard) their faces turned red and let him go fast :)
The guy who took me to Paide was funny. He had a milk truck and there was combine harvester going before us. The man said: "F**king Bread Factory - whole road full of it". That really made me laugh. He noticed Latvian milk trucks on the road and remarked - the people with 6 toes are going... (I've heard so many times this expression about Latvians but I didn't know the reason why are they called that) and I asked maybe he knows... he didn't. But he said that he had heard that if you cross gorilla and turtle... you get a proper Latvian soldier (my Latvian friends, don't get upset on me, that's just what he told) :)
Luckily he took me not very far from the big junction of Tallinn-Tartu and Pärnu-Rakvere roads. So I had choice - if I can't get to Rakvere on direct ride, I'll go to Tallinn. It was dark outside.
Next ride came quickly. Straight to Rakvere thanks to local show man. And we had many common friends and the ride was very-very interesting.
AT home... it was nice to become human being again - shower, shave, clean clothes, hairdressers...

As an epilogue I can say it is really not important that you like everything on your trip but the more accurate picture you get the more valuable was the trip.
One thing I have to really think about next time - getting some Euros with me. Paying service fee for bank machines is really stupid and I spent too much on that.
I have asked so many times the question "isn't it kind of boring traveling alone like this?". Firstly... after reading about my travels do you still have the question?
If so... I can honestly say it's not boring. You always have somebody to talk to if you wish. But so many less contact I would have had if I already had company.
Before my trip I had experiences that the Poles are great nation, very hospitable and kind. Now I can say the same about Ukrainians. Although I didn't have too many HCS contacts there...
By the way... during whole trip nobody laughed about my crappy Russian language skills :)

NB! All the pictures are in my Picasaweb: http://picasaweb.google.com/