One idea was leaving to Oulu, Finland to see even whiter nights than we have... but Bannister planned his birthday on 20th and it sounded too cool to miss it. The style was "color splash" (all in one color but one item)
Food was good, sauna was hot, Munchkin was fun and Bannister got older. Not bad price for such an evening :)
Next morning one guy compared me with Kraftwerk. Even though I had a little alcohol (perhaps just not enough) I had small headache and I only could think about Rammstein and was Kraftwerk one of their albums or not :-P
A little bit of packing (most stuff was packed already) and I took a train from Tallinn to Narva
Narva is pretty nice city with Soviet touch but clean and the Sun was shining and people seemed to be friendly also.
The castle on Estonian side didn't look that fascinating
But the view to Russian castle was awesome!
Unfortunately there was no way getting closer to Swedish-built building of clothing industry.
On the edge of Narva there were garages for boats. The sight was funny because this types of garages I had seen only for cars before. Of were they still for cars and much floods this year?
In that case it was just stupid to build garages there...
Then I rode my bike along the channel from Narva to a power plant.
And next to side of it...
My road went to Arumäe, Soldina and on gravel roads to Hiiemetsa where I spent my first night. It's a swamps district and the ground was very wet.
Next morning I woke up before 7 A.M. and next stop was Sinimäe. Famous battle fields there. Too early - the museum was closed. But I can go back anyway. Sightseeing platform was great and especially I loved the construction
Next stop - Viivikonna. A mostly abandoned Soviet mining part of city.
I didn't feel like (which is very unusual for me) going into these houses... but compared to Patarei Prison in Tallinn where still is stuff and documents around. Generally the town seemed OK. Some people walking around, some working, some having green gardens. A very green place.
Didn't ask locals though... how it feels to live there. Probably pretty scary.
Then I thought of taking a quarry road. But there are "no entry" signs (this one wasn't shown on my map) so I had to take another gravel road. At some point it turned into all-rock-road. Very hard to cycle on it (always afraid to break a tyre) but impossible to walk on it.
Finally made it to normal ashpalt road again and next stop - a gas station east of Jõhvi. I missed tea already and a beer...
Next stop - Pühtitsa Convent. Funny picture but soon became weird - everyone was taking "holy water" with tanks.
Only reasonable explanation for me was: they live 2km from this place and that's the closest well for them. Or they want eat, drink and wash in this only so even their crap will be holy.
But the convent itself looked awesome (I had been there also last year). And they sold kvass. It tasted almost like the one we had in Soviet times in big yellow metal barrels. "Almost" most probably because at the convent it was fresh ;)
I asked the girl who sold the kvass if I could take a picture. She seemed a bit flattered but answered like a nun - not this window, on the territory - yes.
Now cycling towards Vasknarva - both sides of roads swamp - nature reserves. And horseflies chasing me for kilometers.
Arriving to Vasknarva
The village is OK, many new buildings that suit with each other. Most cars - Mercedes-Benz (older one's like ex-Soviet mafia guys). I heard speaking only Russian and no way of getting on the bank of Narva river in the village to see Russia - all blocked with signs "Eratee" (private road). Probably that's the only word they understand in Estonian.
There - a place with beautiful beach, protected sand dunes - I thought of spending my next night but it was crowded with blood-sucking little fly-like bugs. As I didn't know how are these called in Estonian and never "felt" them before than in this "small-Russia" I thought of calling them Sibulakärbsed (OnionFlies - Estonians know what I mean).
It was not possible to spend night there - they go through tent's nets anyway I had to bike more... about 17 km to get rid of them. And I found an official tenting area. Another problem - some Russian-speaking guys having a party - no place to have a rest.
Another 9 km of roads and I found a nice place with quiet neighbors and not pay-n-camp area.
There I broke by bike computer. I had riden on the first day about 30km (4 hours around the city), 117km on the second.
Somewhere near Tammispää I was a tower next to the lake. Of course I just had to climb up.
I did see a car next to the tower and some people up there - I thought another tourists. But the upper trap door was closed. So I thought they come down, I'll go up. I was surprised when a guy in Boarder Guard uniform came down and asked "With whom I have the honor" (understandable - I had Estonian military boots on, U.S. military pants, Estonian military long-sleeved shirt, reflecting vest and black headscarf.
I explained I'm biking and saw a tower.
He replied that this is Border guard tower and couldn't I see the car downstairs?
I told that I saw and thought there are other tourists.
He said that there are chains and trap doors!
I confirmed I had seen the chains and trap doors were all open, no signs anywhere.
Then he asked what's my purpose and hearing just taking pictures, he said "OK" and disappeared up behind the trap door again. I had nice view abd shots.
I cycled towards Mustvee, thinking to go into the town... but somehow I didn't turn at the right point to I went to a gas station, took an ice cream and bike chain oil and cycled to next junction to have a nice break... there I saw a sign "Tartu - 61km". From Tartu go trains to Orava where were my friends celebrating Midsummer and the next one was the most important night.
And I thought it's not that far... I had 4 hours and 20 minutes to the train.
I called my friends - yes, they were there and there was room for one more. I called info line 1185 and they said the train is going at 6:14 P.M. Unfortunately they didn't check it was public holiday and no trains... but still I was happy they "lied" because otherwise I wouldn't have had party with my friends... I write about it later...
So 61km to Tartu and the only thing I was sorry I didn't see Mustvee and had pickles and fish people sell by the road there. It's local special. Have to go back!
Towards Tartu roads became more hilly and some 20km before Tartu wind raised... kind on testing my nerves. Before Tartu I took small break at a gas station. Thinking of having a yoghurt but it looked too big portion... and because of being tired and holding too many things I dropped it... and half of it was on the floor. I still bought it and my "problem" was solved.
I made it to Tartu... 61 kilometers but I didn't count I also need to ride inside the city and that takes time... I hurried. At 6 P.M. I was in railway station. Soon a train stopped and a lady started speaking to train engineer. The engineer said he's sorry but the trains goes to depot and it's holiday schedule. He's gonna call someone and asks about the situation.
The lady left but I was curious to find out what will he be told. After some time he came back and told nothing can be done. He cheered me a little and suggested to have a party in a couple other places or take train with him next morning but I told I have friends waiting. He was sorry, I wished him the best and left to bus station.
The bus was about to leave and I waited the bus driver to stop talking to a lady between the door but suddenly the driver closed the bus door in front of the lady and the lady left. I waved to the driver. He opened the door and complained it's departure time and why was I standing like this.
I asked if I could fit my bike somewhere and fourtunately it fit just perfect in the luggage room.
The bus ride - nice and relaxing - was for 40km. Lucky me - Laura's (one of my friends in Mikitamäe) brother was still sober and agreed to pick me up. So I rode about 5 more kilometers and Laura's brother 80 kilometers to pick me up.
This place looked just perfect - friends (one I hadn't seen for quite a long time already), lake water, sauna, fire, beers, delicious food!
At some point somebody had an idea to visit Midsummer celebrations in Värska. As it was already Setomaa (area with special culture) I found this idea interesting and hoping to hear local folk singing or something. But no, it was the party exactly like everywhere else in Estonia - big fire, stage with local band (playing tunes that everyone knows), Village Swing
... and folk sports and audience for the sports games just as stupid as everywhere else. One screaming that other one is cheating and then doing the "sports" and cheating the same way etc.
At least they we're not violent... this also happens to be common for these celebrations in Estonia.
Thanks to Laura's bro again we got to the party and thanks to Eve we got comfortably back. Having sauna and staying up to the morning with Ronald to see sunrise (unfortunately it was too cloudy) we had nice conversation.
The day ended with biking "only" 94km + inside Tartu and bus ride and 40km by car.
Next morning we didn't hurry anywhere - waking up, sunbathing, eating, some swimming. I didn't have much connectivity with mobile phone and after one try I didn't call to info line.
Everyone left at about 5 P.M., I cycled to closest village centre and called info line... no trains from the station 11km far, no buses from closer town and one last bus after 3 hours from Põlva, a town 40km away. I thought I could do 40km in two hours, no problem...
But the wind again... and the hills.
Finally I got to Põlva. Some time left. I thought I needed some cash for the bus so I tried one bank office but the lady that went in was surprised I also went in and told it's a private area... I told in some place bank machines are inside banks and you use your card to get in... then I chose wring way inside Põlva - downhill. I saw another lady and asked which way was the bus station. She showed up the hill... SHIT!
I worked hard to get up there, heavy backpack on bike's luggage carrier... found a bank machine and made it to bus station. The time was 8 P.M. sharp. I asked the driver if I could fit in...
He told he should be leaving.
He told I need to unscrew the handle bar and turn it. I tried just without front wheel - didn't fit. The driver kept on complaining. I found the tools, local drunks helping me (I can say thanks to them making fuss, talking "helping" and helping the driver couldn't just go.
I paid for the ticket and turned around to shake one drunk's hand and he asked for "10" I had got back from the driver. Of course I gave it. It was 6 minutes past 8.
I was happy to arrive in Tartu. I knew that even if I had to stay there to the morning (I'd put up a tent a little outside of the city anyway) still I could get to Tallinn in the morning.
I got there at 9:15. I asked about buses from Võru bus driver (he was polite and helping) and then Liis called (which was super-nice from her). Then I called info line and they told me last bus to Tallinn had left at 9:00. "Holiday schedule"! No more trains either. Last one leaves every day at 7:54 P.M.
Next option was 3 A.M. bus. Expensive (fucking twice the normal price) but fast and existing...
I got another idea. To hitch-hike on a truck at some gas station. I rode towards city border and found Tartu Brewery
Didn't find gas station there. Rode to another side of the city - found a gas station but in a couple of hours no trucks stopped there - public holiday?
I went back to the centre to waste some time and took photos. This day's mileage 40km + a few in Tartu and later a couple in Tallinn.
At some point one man started to talk to me. He was about 40. Talking he got wasted during celebrations, sleeping with about 20 years old "Russian" "girl" at a hostel for money of course but when he woke up about EUR 1.400,- was gone and the chick too...
I even didn't say I was sorry because I really wasn't. But he asked for 25 EEK it'd help him to get back to Saaremaa. He's working in Finland and can pay ma back double and when I'm going to Saaremaa (he gave me his number) I can visit him and get help etc.
I didn't give him money. Suggested to hitch-hike. Telling if I didn't have a bike I'd be at home already. He said "to Tallinn, yeah. But Saaremaa is different". I told him about hitch-hiking to Scotland. He said: "I'm not this kind of person".
At this point I even didn't conscider giving him any money because I am "this kind of person". Screwing girls that can be his daughters and being arrogant with his euros and getting drunk like shit and begging money at bus station... that's the person he is but waving to a driver and making conversation, entertaining a driver - too much for him. Live and learn, bwoy!
But I was glad the man came talking. Because it happens on every trip - an homeless, a drunk, someone random comes and makes a conversation. This trip was almost over and I started worrying :)
Then a little more waiting and my bus came. I got to Tallinn at 5:15 in the morning. Little bit of cycling, shower, one hour sleeping and at work in time. Had to leave and hour earlier in the evening because of being too tired... and then sleeping to the next morning :)
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